HOT: Panama Dining Room, Level 3/231 Smith St, Fitzroy

When I first dreamt of living in Collingwood, I dreamt of living in a huge warehouse apartment with lofty ceilings and huge windows like those in the Panama Dining Room.

This dimly lit and palm-fronded dining room was buzzy on a Sunday night as we settled down for a low-key dinner with friends. The menu was an eclectic Mod Oz mix - from wagyu beef steaks with mash, crisp pheasant pie to a wet, spongy spinach and yoghurt souffle with subtly Indian spiced vegetables. The food was pleasant but not outstanding, but combined with the ambience it worked as a great local restaurant.