HOT: Cosi Bar Ristorante, 68 Toorak Rd, South Yarra 3141

Cosi's gone upmarket since I was last there, regularly devouring their fabulous pancakes for breakfast. The light-filled restaurant still has the lovely courtyard area, but the tables are now covered by white linen tableclothes and the food is much more formal.

That's not necessarily a criticism, it's just not what we were expecting for a lunch over the Sunday papers. Linen tableclothes seem to dictate a ban on reading matter at the table and an effort at proper conversation.

So, to the food. RM's duck ravioli ($27.50) was delicious, with the pasta at a proper al dente texture. Unfortunately, neither he or I were fans of the oily sauce, but only because we should have known better than to order a dish with brown butter and not because it was badly executed. My pork belly ($36) was definitely on the dry side, but I liked it in combination with the creamy roast apple and the fresh tang of the finely julienned carrots, fennel and green apple.

Combined with their gracious laughter when I broke the pepper grinder, and the Entertainment Card discount, a lovely meal.